Strain the drippings: Tip everything from the roasting pan through a fine mesh strainer into a large measuring cup or a fat separator. Press the solids to get the last of the liquid out of them, then throw them away.

Skim the fat: Let the liquid sit about 10 minutes. The fat rises into a clear yellow layer on top. Spoon off 1/4 cup of that fat and set it aside, then discard the rest. If the bird didn't render 1/4 cup, make up the difference with unsalted butter.

Measure the liquid: Measure what's left under the fat. You want 3 cups. Top it up with turkey or low-sodium chicken broth if you're short, and warm it in the microwave or a small pan so it isn't cold when it hits the roux.

Cook the roux: Heat the reserved 1/4 cup fat in a large skillet or saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and keep whisking 2-3 minutes, until the paste turns pale golden and smells toasty instead of raw.

Add the liquid slowly: Pour in about 1 cup of the warm liquid and whisk hard until the pan is completely smooth, then add the rest in a steady stream, whisking the whole time.

Boil, then simmer: Bring the gravy to a full boil, then drop the heat and simmer 5-8 minutes, whisking now and then, until it coats the back of a spoon and holds a clean line when you swipe a finger through it.

Season and serve: Stir in the pepper, plus the thyme and cream if you're using them, then taste and add salt. Drippings and broth are both salty already, so taste before you reach for the shaker. Pour into a warmed gravy boat and serve right away.